FINANCING AVAILABLE
GLOSSARY OF HVAC TERMS
AFUE
Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency. The AFUE percentage tells you how much energy is being converted to heat. The higher the number the greater the efficiency.
Air Handler
The portion of your heating and cooling system that forces air through your home's ductwork.
BTU
British Thermal Units. The amount of heat it takes to raise one pound of water one degree Fahrenheit. The higher the BTU rating, the larger the heating capacity of the furnace or air conditioner.
Capacity
The ability of a heating or cooling system to heat or cool a given amount of space. Heating is usually expressed in BTUs, cooling is expressed in tons.
Compressor
The motor/pump that drives the air conditioning unit. It is responsible for pumping refrigerant throughout the system.
Condenser Coil
Part of the outdoor portion of a heating or cooling system, that releases or collects heat from the outside air.
Damper
A valve or moveable plate used in ductwork that opens and closes to control airflow. They are used to direct air to specific areas of the home.
Downflow
A type of furnace that takes cool air from the top and blows warm air to the bottom.
Ductwork
Hollow metal pipes used to transfer air throughout your house.
Electronic Air Cleaner
An electronic device that filters out particles and contaminants in indoor air.
Evaporator Coil
Part of the heating or cooling system located indoors, that cools and dehumidifies the air by converting liquid refrigerant into gas.
Heat Exchanger
The major part of the furnace that transfers heat into your home.
Heat Pump
A unit that handles both heating and cooling. In some climates, a heat pump may handle your heating and cooling needs more efficiently than a furnace and air conditioner.
Horizontal Flow
A type of furnace, installed on its side, which draws air from one side, heats the air and then sends it out the other side.
HSPF
Heating Seasonal Performance Factor. Measures the heating efficiency of a heat pump. The higher the number the more efficient the heat pump heats your home.
Humidifier
A piece of equipment that adds moisture to the air as it comes out of the furnace.
HVAC
Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning.
Refrigerant
A chemical that cools air as it evaporates.
SEER
Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio. SEER measures a unit's cooling efficiency. The higher the number, the greater the efficiency.
Single Package
An outdoor unit that contains both a heating and a cooling system.
Split System
Refers to an air conditioner or heat pump that is combined with indoor components, such as an evaporator coil inside and a condenser coil outside your home.
Thermostat
A device that monitors and controls your temperature inside your home.
Upflow
A type of furnace that draws cool air from the bottom and blows the warmed air out the top.
Ventilator
A ventilator captures heating or cooling energy from stale indoor air and transfers it to fresh incoming air.
Zone
Zoning allows you to control the heating and cooling delivered to specific areas of your house for a custom solution. Zoning can increase efficiency and comfort in the area of the house you use most often.
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AFUE
Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency. The AFUE percentage tells you how much energy is being converted to heat. The higher the number the greater the efficiency.
Air Handler
The portion of your heating and cooling system that forces air through your home's ductwork.
BTU
British Thermal Units. The amount of heat it takes to raise one pound of water one degree Fahrenheit. The higher the BTU rating, the larger the heating capacity of the furnace or air conditioner.
Capacity
The ability of a heating or cooling system to heat or cool a given amount of space. Heating is usually expressed in BTUs, cooling is expressed in tons.
Compressor
The motor/pump that drives the air conditioning unit. It is responsible for pumping refrigerant throughout the system.
Condenser Coil
Part of the outdoor portion of a heating or cooling system, that releases or collects heat from the outside air.
Damper
A valve or moveable plate used in ductwork that opens and closes to control airflow. They are used to direct air to specific areas of the home.
Downflow
A type of furnace that takes cool air from the top and blows warm air to the bottom.
Ductwork
Hollow metal pipes used to transfer air throughout your house.
Electronic Air Cleaner
An electronic device that filters out particles and contaminants in indoor air.
Evaporator Coil
Part of the heating or cooling system located indoors, that cools and dehumidifies the air by converting liquid refrigerant into gas.
Heat Exchanger
The major part of the furnace that transfers heat into your home.
Heat Pump
A unit that handles both heating and cooling. In some climates, a heat pump may handle your heating and cooling needs more efficiently than a furnace and air conditioner.
Horizontal Flow
A type of furnace, installed on its side, which draws air from one side, heats the air and then sends it out the other side.
HSPF
Heating Seasonal Performance Factor. Measures the heating efficiency of a heat pump. The higher the number the more efficient the heat pump heats your home.
Humidifier
A piece of equipment that adds moisture to the air as it comes out of the furnace.
HVAC
Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning.
Refrigerant
A chemical that cools air as it evaporates.
SEER
Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio. SEER measures a unit's cooling efficiency. The higher the number, the greater the efficiency.
Single Package
An outdoor unit that contains both a heating and a cooling system.
Split System
Refers to an air conditioner or heat pump that is combined with indoor components, such as an evaporator coil inside and a condenser coil outside your home.
Thermostat
A device that monitors and controls your temperature inside your home.
Upflow
A type of furnace that draws cool air from the bottom and blows the warmed air out the top.
Ventilator
A ventilator captures heating or cooling energy from stale indoor air and transfers it to fresh incoming air.
Zone
Zoning allows you to control the heating and cooling delivered to specific areas of your house for a custom solution. Zoning can increase efficiency and comfort in the area of the house you use most often.
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INDOOR AIR QUALITY
According to studies by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), indoor levels of airborne pollutants may be 2-5 times, and occasionally 100 times, higher than outdoor levels. Moreover, we spend about 60% of our time inside our homes where poor air quality is attributed to the cause or aggravation of half of all illnesses.
Indoor air pollutants can be liquid or solid materials and can be composed of inorganic or organic compounds, bacteria or viruses. Common indoor pollutants include pet dander, dust mites, fungal spores, molds and pollens.
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According to studies by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), indoor levels of airborne pollutants may be 2-5 times, and occasionally 100 times, higher than outdoor levels. Moreover, we spend about 60% of our time inside our homes where poor air quality is attributed to the cause or aggravation of half of all illnesses.
Indoor air pollutants can be liquid or solid materials and can be composed of inorganic or organic compounds, bacteria or viruses. Common indoor pollutants include pet dander, dust mites, fungal spores, molds and pollens.
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KNOW YOUR HEAT PUMP
(What to expect from your heat pump when the temperature drops.)
Heat pumps work by extracting heat from the outside air. Even at very cold temperatures there is heat that can be removed from the air. Heat pumps also have a have backup system (usually electric heat banks) that supplement their heating ability when the outdoor temperature gets below the “balance point” of the house. The "balance point" is the temperature outside at which the unit cannot maintain the set temperature without using the auxiliary (electric) heat. When this happens the auxiliary heat will cycle on and off as needed to maintain the thermostat setting. There is a built in temperature differential of about 3 degrees so that the electric heat is not working when it is not needed. Therefore it is possible that on extremely cold days the temperature reading may be 3 degrees lower than the thermostat setting before the auxiliary heat comes on. When this happens it is not unusual for a heat pump to run non-stop with the electric heat cycling on and off until the outdoor temperature rises above the "balance point."
The temperature of the air blowing out of a heat pump will normally feel cool to the touch. The reason for this is that your body temperature is 98.6 degrees while the heat pump air temperature is around 84 to 86 degrees. This is normal. The only time the air blowing from the heat pump will feel warm to the touch is when the auxiliary heat is on, the unit is put in the emergency heat mode or it is in the defrost cycle which is programmed at the factory. If the unit goes into defrost while the thermostat is calling for heat the auxiliary heat will come on to meet the demand for heat in the house. You may see steam rising from the outside unit when this happens. This is because the unit is melting any frost or ice that may have built up on the outdoor unit as a result of frozen precipitation or typical frost accumulation. This steam is normal and will last only a short period of time but it will look like the unit is "on fire" until the defrost cycle is complete. While in the defrost cycle the outdoor unit will not be running. It will start again after the cycle is complete. This cycle takes about two minutes.
The emergency heat and auxiliary heat are from the same source. The only difference is that when the thermostat is set to the emergency heat mode it completely turns the outdoor unit off. The emergency heat should be used when the heat pump is not functioning in the normal mode. This will provide heat until a service tech can be scheduled to your home.
To recap:
(What to expect from your heat pump when the temperature drops.)
Heat pumps work by extracting heat from the outside air. Even at very cold temperatures there is heat that can be removed from the air. Heat pumps also have a have backup system (usually electric heat banks) that supplement their heating ability when the outdoor temperature gets below the “balance point” of the house. The "balance point" is the temperature outside at which the unit cannot maintain the set temperature without using the auxiliary (electric) heat. When this happens the auxiliary heat will cycle on and off as needed to maintain the thermostat setting. There is a built in temperature differential of about 3 degrees so that the electric heat is not working when it is not needed. Therefore it is possible that on extremely cold days the temperature reading may be 3 degrees lower than the thermostat setting before the auxiliary heat comes on. When this happens it is not unusual for a heat pump to run non-stop with the electric heat cycling on and off until the outdoor temperature rises above the "balance point."
The temperature of the air blowing out of a heat pump will normally feel cool to the touch. The reason for this is that your body temperature is 98.6 degrees while the heat pump air temperature is around 84 to 86 degrees. This is normal. The only time the air blowing from the heat pump will feel warm to the touch is when the auxiliary heat is on, the unit is put in the emergency heat mode or it is in the defrost cycle which is programmed at the factory. If the unit goes into defrost while the thermostat is calling for heat the auxiliary heat will come on to meet the demand for heat in the house. You may see steam rising from the outside unit when this happens. This is because the unit is melting any frost or ice that may have built up on the outdoor unit as a result of frozen precipitation or typical frost accumulation. This steam is normal and will last only a short period of time but it will look like the unit is "on fire" until the defrost cycle is complete. While in the defrost cycle the outdoor unit will not be running. It will start again after the cycle is complete. This cycle takes about two minutes.
The emergency heat and auxiliary heat are from the same source. The only difference is that when the thermostat is set to the emergency heat mode it completely turns the outdoor unit off. The emergency heat should be used when the heat pump is not functioning in the normal mode. This will provide heat until a service tech can be scheduled to your home.
To recap:
- The air coming from the registers will feel cool to the touch.
- The auxiliary heat will come on when the temperature outside drops below the "balance point."
- The auxiliary heat may come on when the unit goes into the defrost cycle.
- The outdoor unit may look like it is "on fire" when it is in the defrost cycle.
- The outdoor unit will not be running when the unit is in the defrost cycle or if the thermostat is set to the emergency heat mode.
QUICK GUIDE TO SUCCESSFUL HEAT PUMP OPERATION
Heat pumps are slightly different from traditional heating systems. Using a heat pump should save money in the form of reduced energy bills. Purchase and installation costs may be higher for a heat pump than for an electric furnace; however, the reduced utility bills for a heat pump should provide an overall dollar savings. The following information addresses typical user concerns and gives suggestions for ways to run a heat pump efficiently.
SET THE THERMOSTAT AND FORGET IT
Ice on the outdoor unit followed by a cloud of water vapor actually is normal operation in humid weather around 25°F to 45°F. The unit is in its defrost cycle.
CHANGE AIR FILTERS REGULARLY
The air at the vents may seem cooler than air from traditional heating systems. This is normal for a heat pump, especially as it gets colder outside.
HIGH RUN TIME IS OK
Heat pumps run a good deal longer than conventional furnaces, especially when it's cold outside. This is normal.
DO NOT BLOCK REGISTERS
Always keep debris away from the outdoor unit so it has plenty of room for air circulation.
GET DUCTS SEALED
Have an HVAC technician inspect any ducts located outside or in the crawlspace or attic and seal where necessary. Duct sealing is a smart move and required only once.
SCHEDULE ANNUAL MAINTENANCE
Have a heat pump service technician perform annual maintenance on your heat pump in the summer. This service may include:
Heat pumps are slightly different from traditional heating systems. Using a heat pump should save money in the form of reduced energy bills. Purchase and installation costs may be higher for a heat pump than for an electric furnace; however, the reduced utility bills for a heat pump should provide an overall dollar savings. The following information addresses typical user concerns and gives suggestions for ways to run a heat pump efficiently.
SET THE THERMOSTAT AND FORGET IT
- Determine both a heating and cooling setting you find comfortable and stick with them. Do not develop a habit of adjusting the settings.
- Do not manually set back the temperature every night.
- Some heat pump thermostats have a night setback. For those models, do not program the night setback temperature below 55°F.
- Make sure your setting for cooling is at least 10°F above your setting for heating.
- If the supplemental or auxiliary heat runs often when the temperature outside is above 40°F, get a technician to install an outdoor thermostat and/or an intelligent recovery indoor thermostat.
Ice on the outdoor unit followed by a cloud of water vapor actually is normal operation in humid weather around 25°F to 45°F. The unit is in its defrost cycle.
CHANGE AIR FILTERS REGULARLY
- Follow instructions in the owner's manual for the correct filter type and schedule for replacement or cleaning.
- Make sure the unit has a filter at all times.
The air at the vents may seem cooler than air from traditional heating systems. This is normal for a heat pump, especially as it gets colder outside.
HIGH RUN TIME IS OK
Heat pumps run a good deal longer than conventional furnaces, especially when it's cold outside. This is normal.
DO NOT BLOCK REGISTERS
- Do not restrict airflow by closing off air vents in the system.
- Leave the vents open, even in rooms that are used occasionally.
- Do not cover vents with furniture or rugs.
Always keep debris away from the outdoor unit so it has plenty of room for air circulation.
GET DUCTS SEALED
Have an HVAC technician inspect any ducts located outside or in the crawlspace or attic and seal where necessary. Duct sealing is a smart move and required only once.
SCHEDULE ANNUAL MAINTENANCE
Have a heat pump service technician perform annual maintenance on your heat pump in the summer. This service may include:
- Coil and fan cleaning
- Refrigerant charge and pressure check/adjustment
- Electrical check
- Starting and running amperage tests on all motors
- Auxiliary element test
- Lubrication
- Belt tension test (if necessary
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